The 2006 At Your Table Cookbook Awards

The mixture of respect and whimsy you’ve come to expect from the At Your Table team.

The Academic Apple Award

The award for best textbook style and or instructional cookbook.

Kitchen Sense by Mitchell Davis—Clarkson/Potter Publishers
Mr. Davis has created a siren song of information drawing both the experienced and inexperienced deeper into the magical waters of cooking. Well organized and straightforward, Kitchen Sense is a book that ought to be at the fingertips of every cook.

The Award for Best Book with Recipes from a Member of the Persona Staff

The Twinkie Cookbook from Hostess—Ten Speed Press Publishers
Persona Day Spa massage therapist Soraya Hamid has the distinction of being the only contributor (out of over 3000 nationwide submissions) to the The Twinkie Cookbook to have two recipes included in this ‘short but sweet’ collage. Soraya’s exceptional ability as a massage therapist and her trim, healthy physique make this accomplishment all the more ironic.

The Itty-Bitty Book of Distinction Award

Small works with a big message. Co-winners:

Sake by Beau Timken and Sara Deseran—Chronicle Books, Publisher
Sake, not technically a cookbook, is a tiny tome stuffed with information, passion and stories about, wait for it: Sake. The author, a self-proclaimed reincarnation of a ‘400 year-old kurabito’ (the Japanese term for common sake worker), Beau, arguably the greatest American authority on sake has not only created sake’s best English text, but also created True Sake, America’s finest sake boutique in the Hayes Valley district of San Francisco.

Simple Italian Sandwiches by Jennifer and Jason Denton with Kathryn Kellinger—HarperCollins Publishers
The Dentons and Ms. Kellinger have authored a book jam-packed with everything you need to know about pannini, bruschetta and tramezzini. Reading the book, you wonder if you’re in the Old Country or New York’s West Village. It’s the latter location where the Denton’s have established ‘ino, an ultra-popular lunch spot by day, and a late-night hangout for chefs throughout the city.

The Book with the Best Diet Advice Award

Cooking From The Heart of Spain-Food of La Mancha by Janet Mendel—HarperCollins Publishers
This wonderful book would certainly be an award candidate in other, perhaps, more prestigious categories but, on the other hand, no one gave us such a delicious way to curb the appetite. Ms. Mendel is an American-born journalist and this book is a culmination of research and passion from having lived in southern Spain for the past 40 years. In her comments accompanying the spectacular recipe for Manchego Chicken with Anisette, she describes how ‘hardy peasants might drink the anisette for breakfast, when it’s said to matar el gusanillo (kill the little worm of hunger)’. We remain hopeful about that effect, but whether it works or not, it’s a delicious way to start your morning.

The Tastiest Book On Your Coffee Table Award

The award for the book with the most spectacular photography, engrossing stories and exotic recipes.

Mangoes & Curry Leaves-Culinary Travels Through The Great Subcontinent by Jeffery Alford & Naomi Duguid—Published by Aristan, A Division of Workman Publishing, Inc.
This adventuresome couple has taken the book’s recipes deep into their cultural context. Having beautifully captured the width and breadth of Bangladesh, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka through photographs and stories, the recipes that Alford and Duguid have included come vibrantly alive. This book will either save you thousands of dollars by allowing a vicarious visit, or cost you thousands of dollars because it convinces you that you must go there.

Book with the Most Heart and Soul Award

Books born of passion, written with spirit and enjoyed with delight. Co-winners:

The Breath of a Wok-Unlocking the Spirit of Chinese Wok Cooking Through Recipes and Lore by Grace Young and Alan Richardson—Simon & Schuster Publisher
In Breath of a Wok, Ms. Young vividly describes the energy contained within the wok from its construction, seasoning, care and its interaction with the flame. She shows how ‘Wok Hay’ the Cantonese term used to describe this phenomenon can be effectively achieved at home. Food, philosophy and tradition come together deliciously in this wonderful book.

Sweets-Soul Food Desserts & Memories by Patty Pinner—Ten Speed Press Publishers
Patty Pinner is not a professional author but you wouldn’t know it from Sweets. Her effort here comes across as a professionally written love story for family, tradition and soul-food dessert recipes that would ‘make a tadpole slap a whale’. Many of these recipes passed from generation to generation by word of mouth, and Sweets is a tribute to Ms. Pinner’s determination to construct a written record for anyone with a craving for these delicious desserts.

The Out-Of-The Blue Book Award

The best cookbook from a region of the world we’d never heard of:

Cucina of Le Marche-A Chef’s Treasury of Recipes from Italy’s Last Culinary Frontier, by Fabio Trabocchi with Peter Kaminsky—HaperCollins Publishers
As a chef, Trabocchi is universally recognized as a rising star. As an author, he has provided wonderful insight into the sumptuous cuisine of his heritage. Le Marche is located in east-central Italy on the Adriatic coast and has heretofore existed in relative obscurity. With books like this and with chefs like Trabocchi the comfort of seclusion is destined to end. The rustic flavors contained herein are a pleasure to prepare.

The No Pain-No Gain Award

A highly demanding book that is well worth the effort. Co-winners:

The Lever House Cookbook by Dan Silverman and Joann Cinciulli—Clarkson Potter Publishers
A twenty-year veteran of the New York culinary scene, Chef Dan must take his culinary skills for granted in that he thinks the recipes in The Lever House Cookbook are ‘pretty simple and straight forward’. They are, in fact, spectacular and absolutely delicious. Simple. Not so much. An experienced cook will love the challenge of this labor and it could be impetus enough for a beginning chef to get better. Pain, yes. Gain, absolutely!

The Sushi Experience-Everything You Need to Know About Sushi by Hiroko Shimbo—Alfred A. Knopf Publisher
Hiroki Shimbo is rigorously determined to demystify The Sushi Experience. Combining copious instructions for shopping, preparation and presentation, she gives a complete road map for the incredibly resilient. The richly deserved reward is an outcome that is impressive in its aesthetics to both the eye and the palate. As a bonus (and for the less resilient) she offers several ‘insider’ suggestions for the dine-out sushi experience.

The Most Fun To Cook From Book Award

The cookbook providing the most fun for menu planning, preparation and consumption.

Biba’s Italy-Favorite Recipes from the Splendid Cities by Biba Caggiano—Published by Artisan, A Division of Workman Publishing, Inc.
Celebrating the cuisines of Rome, Florence, Bologna, Milan and Venice, Chef Biba has provided a wide variety of delicious dishes for the five basic courses of a classic Italian meal. Choosing a dish from each city and each course provided an opportunity to prepare and enjoy ‘your typical five-course Italian spectacle’. Consumed at 8 am.

Honorable Mentions

Books not otherwise recognized and just out of our top five:

Arabesque-A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, & Lebanon by Claudia Roden—Published in the United States by Alfred A. Knopf, Publisher
The Cairo-born Roden’s affinity for the Middle East has made her books among the most definitive sources on this melting pot of cuisines. We not only get well organized, straight forward recipes, we get them lovingly gift-wrapped with visual artistry and a travelogue perspective. This book also offers a subtle reminder that cultural differences can be nurtured and embraced.

Braise by Daniel Bolud and Melissa Clark—HarperCollins Publishers
Looking for one-pot meals? Stop right here. Internationally acclaimed chef Daniel, along with Ms. Clark, takes our taste buds around the world, introducing us to the sublime art of braising. Some of the ingredients can be obscure, but once acquired you’re in for results that are a delight to the palate with an economy of effort.

Eating Cuban-120 Authentic Recipes from the streets of Havana to American Shores by Beverly Cox and Martin Jacobs—Stuart, Tabori & Chang Publishers
For being only ninety miles from the coast of Florida, Cuban cuisine is a world apart in flavors, rusticity and heritage. The United Stated has begun to see an influx of this cuisine and with the writing of Ms. Cox and the photography of Mr. Jacobs, this food culture has exploded into our kitchens and our consciousness.

Into the Vietnamese Kitchen-Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen—Ten Speed Press Publishers
Into the Vietnamese Kitchen is a milestone work. It is the first truly comprehensive guide on this centuries-old cuisine to be published in the English language. As a rich bonus to these rewarding recipes, this book gives us a close look into Vietnamese culture and traditions. The Nguyen family was airlifted out of Vietnam in 1975, and Ms. Nguyen has provided insight into how the recipes and customs they brought with them helped with their integration into life in the United States.

The At Your Table Top Five Books for 2006

Why not a ‘best book’? Because 1) it would be too difficult and 2) the diversity in subject matter is so broad. These books have a common thread of excellence. They are ‘must-have’ books for the serious collector and they reflect a deep, abiding passion for their subjects. They are well written, well organized and well...our top five books of 2006. And, as with the rest of our multiple winner awards, presented here in alphabetical order.

Baking-From my home to yours, by Dorie Greenspan Photographs by Alan Richardson—Houghton Mifflin Publishers
‘America’s best baker’ and ‘queen of baking’ are just some of the phrases used to describe this oven-loving dynamo. Baking, arguably her best in a long line of extraordinary cookbooks, is a pinnacle achievement on the subject of dessert baking. Her three-hundred plus recipes take us on a succulent safari from early morning muffins to sweets (just before) dreams. Using this book and following the simple, straightforward instructions will elevate you to the head-of-the-class baker among your family and friends.

Cradle of Flavor-Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore by James Oseland—W. W. Norton & Company, Publishers
Mr. Oseland’s quarter-century attraction to both the foods and traditions of this archipelago of countries that are, in fact, the Cradle of Flavor, has given us a book of splendid depth and breadth. This book tells you all you need to know, not only about the region’s geography and culture but, about the shopping, preparation and serving these richly complex dishes. If you’ve put off the exploration of these wonderful cuisines Cradle of Flavor is just the book for you.

Happy in the Kitchen by Michel Richard—Published by Artisan, A Division of Workman Publishing, Inc.
Most people don’t walk away from a successful career as a renowned pastry chef to cross over to the ‘flame side’ of the kitchen. Most people aren’t Michel Richard. In 1987 this ‘emperor of ebullience’ opened one of America’s great restaurants: Citrus. And his star just keeps rising. Happy in the Kitchen is a flight of fancy in its approach and a jumbo-jet in its thoroughness, inventiveness and design. With this book you can offer expert preparations wrapped in whimsy and, all the while, be Happy in the Kitchen.

The New American Cooking by Joan Nathan—Published by Alfred A Knoph
Unlike the other books in our Top Five, Ms. Nathan’s book has not appeared on a majority of ‘best’ lists for 2006. To that we say, ‘their oversight’. In The New American Cooking, Nathan uses her ‘street cred’ among the world’s greatest chefs to bring first-rate recipes out of their famous and fabulous kitchens. Not content with that accomplishment, she uses her relentless energy to embark into the culinary backwoods of family diners, small businesses and private homes to uncover delicious slices of culinary Americana.

The Soul of a New Cuisine-A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa by Marcus Samuelsson Photographs by Gediyon Kifle—Published by John J. Wiley & Sons, Inc.
It’s hard to imagine a year that The Soul of a New Cuisine wouldn’t make a best-of list. Samuelsson’s exhaustive search into his family roots has given us a remarkable work, and the first of its kind. His take on cultural character, the richness of heritage and, most of all, the exquisite (often startling in their simplicity) flavors of this under appreciated continent is abundantly impressive. To accomplish a book of this magnitude, in the face of the scheduling demands of one of America’s highly regarded chefs, is clearly fueled by immense passion and energy. And, when the foreword to your book is written by Archbishop Desmond Tutu, you know you’ve created a work that transcends that of ‘just a cookbook’.

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